Village Press Day - AW '2015 Menswear

A few weeks ago, Sol gave me his invitation for Fashion Press Day in London. If you're not familiar with how the commercial side of fashion works (I had no idea actually), press day in a nutshell is a large exhibition in some giant studio that occurs right after the runway show. It's where editors, stylists, journos and stockists get a chance to know more about the design aesthetics, price range and the designer. Lookbooks of every collection are also available. You get guided around every collection and each piece of garment, explained in detail to you of it's construction and idea. This served as a free masterclass on menswear for me to be honest. 

It's really fascinating because if you're relatively new to fashion as an industry, you've probably only thought designers showcased their designs in runways and stores. When in truth, these exhibitions and open press days are just as crucial for any designers who want to break into the market.

All this seriousness aside, I arrived at Old Street - probably the youngest looking creature in the building and I awkwardly went to check in as "Sol" in the registration. I will admit the food lounge and free ice-cream was the first thing that had caught my attention but then I was brought through rooms of designer racks and suddenly ice-cream didn't seem to matter anymore. Deep note; there are greater joys in life than ice-cream and I found it in designs. It wasn't overwhelming like fashion shows, it was very cool and unhurried. So here is the breakdown on some menswear I knit picked from Village Press Day - Autumn/Winter 2015.


MAJESTIC ATHLETIC

I went to the iconic first because those collections had consistent designs, the quintessentials like varsities, bombers, materials of PU leather and nylon. This typically included SUPRA, Majestic Athletic, Brooks etc. The Autumn/Winter season for their heavyweight jackets had a twist though, patchwork patterns along the arms which really allows the jacket to have a less streamlined concept - which is how people usually associate them. Although some people prefer them empty in order to get their own personalised patches, I still think it was a fancy, symmetrical tweak to their original design.


LOU DALTON

Next up, were the contemporary designers - my favourite kind. A pink thunderbirds sweater from Lou Dalton says it all for me. She really knows how to carry forward male tailoring with classical cuts but modern prints. From online streaming, most of Lou's work can be seen very culture influenced, youthful but also always has that preppy finish to it's tailoring. I think, how in just a single collection, she puts together this thunderbird comic sweater with a classic black trench style- really does bring out that aspect. Thunderbirds are go?!

MATTHEW MILLER 

The first thing that pops into my mind, whenever I come across a Miller design is COMPLEXITY, COMPLEXITY and COMPLEXITY. I remember when I got a hold of their previous collection, Matthew Miller had sent a long, luxurious, navy vest from their Untitled Mixed Media Collection. A vest right? How much complexity can a vest actually board on? Well, you tell me because when you're presented with a slip on, v-neck, pleated, layered, two different hemlines - in one single "simple" vest, you start to question the normality of a vest. Despite simplicity being conveyed in the designs, it's really well.....complex. From afar, the rack looks like a contemporary minimal assortment. Closer look, the range of materials used (hence: mixed media) on even basic garments like a biker jacket brings out the structure that makes Matthew Miller so distinctive. On a completely different note, check out this LookBook I made a few months ago featuring some Miller Designs, modelled by Mu'izz from WearriorInstinct. 




PETER JENSEN x PEANUTS

Ever since I stumbled upon Peter Jensen's menswear, I've had the vision that if I was born a boy - I would dress myself from head to toe in Peter Jensen's designs. I'm a lover of colour and print, I think they bring out a humorous side of fashion we forget nowadays because everyone prefers streamlined content and monochromatic styles. His Peanuts collaboration emphasised on Snoopy and Charlie Brown, again nodding towards the designer's quirky comedic style.  It's clever and gives a charismatic side to the link between personality and the clothes you wear. Peter being Danish includes that in his designs but with a balance of a London subculture.



KIT NEALE

Kit Neale leans more towards an abstract approach for me, even though many label him as a contemporary designer (I do too). The use of print and a dynamic colour scheme are the foundations of his designs. It's modern, cultural and also youthful - which really strikes me because today's generation of fashion subcultures are so eager to follow through the minimalistic (again, monochromatic or all white) drift in style. Kit Neale challenges that but is still able to represent his designs with the younger crowd and appeal to them with this exciting and vibrant characteristic. 

We need more colour in this world but we're too into personalisation and having an identity in our clothes that we tend to just stick with a comfortable scheme. I will stop here and continue onto womenswear on another post before I turn too philosophical, as I often do with fashion.